2bls Superior Sealant FAQ
Rule #1: Preferably only apply sealant to a set-up that holds air
When to add sealant
After installing your tubeless tyre on a tubeless compatible rim, it is much, much better if the tyre holds air without sealant. Why? Well if you sealant is getting to work right away, you already start the clock ticking on the sealant and you will need much more sealant. If you are using a tyre that has already been used this means sealing any holes with a patch from the inside (as you would an inner tube) and preferably use smooth edged glue type patches, so the sealant can flow easily over the patch. Yes we know you would like to use the lightest set-up, but there is no point using a tubeless tyre that is 20g lighter and does not seal, so needs and extra 30-50g of sealant… think about it… and then the fact that it is drying out your sealant from day one! The boat analogy is; just because you have a bildge pump, you would not set out to see with water in the boat or a leak would you? no, because when trouble strikes, you are already behind.
OK, I hear you, but I cannot help myself and love X, Y, Z tyre… what do I do. Well if its the sidewall that leaks you are going to have to sit the tyres on their sides, either on a bucket or chair backs or if you are lucky a glamorous assistant will hold the tyres vertically for you 🙂
Tyre / Rim Compatibility
OK, you love X, Y, Z tyre but it was an absolute pain getting it on my new rims
Rule #2 – never ride a difficult tyre / rim combo.
This applies to tubed clinchers as well: Do your research, be prepared to ebay those tyres and then research what does work; as if a tyre / rim combo destroyed your fingers on installation in the warmth of your kitchen with the added benefit of a warm coffee and a cuddle from the dog, what are you going to do on a roadside, without tools, with rain dribbling down your neck (OK, this is a British version, translations are: what are you going to do when its 30C and sweat its pouring into your sealant via your eyes and flies that were on the cow poo in the field are now going in your mouth (Spanish / Italian) or what are you going to do when its -30C and your fingers are more frozen than your desiccated mouse-meat bar and it feels like you are being birched by a leather clad angry ex girlfriend after your naked sauna (Swedish) ok, you get the picture right. Please contact / comment below with further cultural translations, but remember to keep them humorous and kind, we will not tolerate hate here…)
What type of sealant is this?
After years of tests with different formulas, the only sealant we are happy calling superior sealant is natural latex with our secret formula of additives. We are aware that the small traces of ammonia can be corrosive and so we minimise this by only buying the highest quality cosmetic grade latex which has very low amounts of ammonia. Most tubeless rims now come with coatings to take account of this, however if you are at all worried I would suggest you add use the widest rim tape you can find and apply rule #1 to make sure there is a great seal before applying sealant. A proper tubeless tyre, which is seated properly on a tubeless rim, with well applied (not wrinkled or old) tape, should not leak any latex into the rim, even though you may see some when removing a used tyre: during its lifespan if latex is reaching your rim you have a bad install!
Rule #3 Install Tubeless Setup Properly
Clean, fresh tape, clean all remainders of old sealant off (if replacing the tyre, reapplying to a new rim, etc) no kinks or creases in tape and get the right width tape for your rim. Its also good to trim any moulding excess from your tyre which could inhibit a good tyre/rim seal.
If you do this, no sealant should ever get behind your tape or in the surface of your rim. If it does you basically have a leak, which is not good, as you will lose sealant, it can cause the tape to unstick, the tyre to burp, etc, etc.
Adding sealant to a well installed, well sealed set-up that holds air. (if your set-up does not hold air see exception above)
Once your set-up is installed, the tyres properly seated on the rim and the tyre holding air preferably at least over night, then the only in our opinion to install sealant is via a removable valve core. Some advise against this as their poor sealant clogs in the valve, but if you now unseat your set-up you will get sealant going past the tape/tyre barrier and forever causing problems.
So the installation (of the sealant) steps:
- Step 1 remove the valve core, after removing air, with the valve at 12 o’clock
- Step 2 put the sealant applicator to the upright valve
- Step 3 turn the wheel 180 so the valve is down at 6 o’clock
- Step 4 squeeze bottle or inject sealant if using an injector, remember to dose as you go! If you dump your load then….
- Step 5 clean the valve core inside before putting the core back hand tight with a valve tool… then inflate and wiggle away shaking sealant everywhere and preferably go for a ride, even with slightly more pressure if you like.
Hint: if you do not clean the inside of the valve, the sealant in the valve can clog your valve
When I get a puncture, what should I do?
Rule #4 When You Puncture Tubeless – Shake it down
One of the most exasperating demonstrations of Darwin’s theory of evolution is watching a tubeless hater / person who should not have a tubeless set-up shouting “its not working” while shooting sealant everywhere. if you have a puncture, stop and get the puncture down at 6 o’clock and bounce the tyre on the floor until it seals. You may need more sealant but it should seal.
Rule #5 Carry more sealant / check sealant, use a dip stick.
So many people go on long rides where we know we are going to puncture and the last one does not seal… sometimes a tubeless puncture is a one-off, but often one puncture is a sign there will be more, and if you do not have spare its like not having sealant!
Is tubeless for me?
Rule #6 – don’t go tubeless if you cannot fix a tubed flat
This may seem bad advice from someone selling sealant, but we believe in trust and honesty and do not want unhappy customers (of the sane variety)!
Tubeless is perfect for a bike you use often and a lot. or you ride in areas where you puncture. However
- Tubeless is more complicated than a tubed set-up. if you find a tubed set-up complicated and difficult, or you mess it up, do not feel bad, we are all different and complicated is not for you. get to a shop and preferably run a tube, as you will have more chance of fixing or finding help who can fix it if you have a problem
- Tubeless really only works well if on a regularly used, regularly pumped up tyre / wheel / bike combination. Unlike car tyres, where weight is not a big issue, bicycle tyres are made light and are small and so when left without air they lose pressure and while you can generally just pump up a tubed tyre and go, if a tubeless set-up is left for a long time without air, then the sealant will dry up and you will have a compromised set-up.
How environmentally friendly is latex?
We only use natural latex or a very high quality and cosmetic grade levels of ammonia, however, good quality chilli is also natural but you do not want to get it on your naughty bits do you? Ok, maybe you do, but you maybe a minority and that is for you to enjoy(?) privately. Likewise, some people maybe allergic or more sensitive than what cosmetic grade levels of ammonia is tested to, so always use eye glasses and wear gloves if you have sensitive skin when handling latex. Clean up any spilled latex as quickly as possible and no it does not wash out of most textiles so… be careful!
We supply small bottles for application and carrying which we hope you will keep and re-use with the refill bottle and then dispose of sensibly. We do not supply a dipstick as we realise you already either have too many plastic cocktail sticks, straws or other things that can be used instead and do not want to create or buy more things that can become waste unnecessarily.